San Diego Metro Pigeon Club


 

San Diego Metro Pigeon Club Care Tips:

Feed approximately 1 oz. of feed per day per bird.

Adjust as necessary according to body size, activity, and season.

Resting:

During the resting period, when molting is complete, but breeding has not yet begun, nutritional demands are low.  The protein requirement is particularly low and is not required to exceed 13%.

Breeding:

Approaching the stressful breeding season, birds must be in peak physical condition.  It is necessary to increase protein levels to 15-20% and pellets should also be incorporated into the diet to supply all the necessary vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients demanded by the body.

Racing/Showing:

Champion racers know this season is critical for managing the diet of birds successfully.  Birds need the best diet possible.  Various feed suppliers have scientifically formulated diets that allow the feeding of a conditioning food during training, followed by a switch to a light to heavy feeding curve.  This plan allows birds to properly recover from strenuous flight and builds them back up to peak flying condition.  Fancy birds look their best because they are getting all the nutrients they need.

Molting:

Next year's seasonal performance may well depend on this year's molting season.  High protein and nutrient levels are necessary to rebuild muscle, replace old feathers and build condition and conformation.  Levels of 15-20% protein achieve these goals.

Purina Nutrablend (Green & Gold Pellets):

There are many different kinds of pigeon feed. Pigeons should not be fed chicken feed it is not formulated to meet their needs. Nutrablend Green is a pellet type feed made by Purina. Pigeons will not waste any of this because it is an all-in-one type of feed.

The squabs grow really fast and are very healthy on this feed.  Purina Nurablend Green is 18% protein for breeders; Gold is 16% protein for conditioning and maintenance.  Purina suggests removing the grit from pens when using this feed because it already contains the minerals they need and the extra minerals pigeons receive from the grit will cause them to develop diarrhea. If not using this type of feed you will need to have pigeon red grit in the loft easily accessed by all the pigeons especially those in the breeding pen.

You can use a mixture of the green and gold pellets to suit your needs.  There is a guide on the bag with suggested mixing ratio for different levels and needs.  Breeders have noted runny droppings when using pellets.  This is probably due to the high salt content of pellets which results in birds drinking more water.  I have heard of breeders using Nutrina Layer Pellets, which has a lower salt content, with success.

There is a discussion of the Purina Pellets on the Ruby Roller website.

Books:

The Pigeon Guide: Practical Breeding, Training, and Management by Dr. Jon Esposito & Shannon Hiatt with introduction by Stephen J. Bodio - While there are many pigeon books available to American pigeon fanciers, reviewers have declared <i>The Pigeon Guide</i> to be one of the most up-to-date and comprehensive works available. This book includes information about breeding systems and genetics, nutrition, loft systems and equipment, showing, racing, and much more. Of particular interest to fanciers is information about the general health and well being of their flocks, preventive health measures, recognition of diseases, and disease treatment.

 

Condition & Treatment Remedies
Courtesy of European Breeding Loft & European Pigeon Products

Description & Accounts
Courtesy of Marsha Danielson

When you get any new birds, isolate them from your other guys for a month and give each a tablet of Aureomycin.  It is a 'general purpose' antibiotic.  Watch to be sure they don't have any runny, bright green droppings or unusual growths around their eyes, mouth, legs, or anywhere else before you put them in with your other birds.  Also, after each show, I wash my birds feet with water and a LITTLE bleach (about one ounce in a gallon of water).

As to vitamins and minerals, I use a feed mix, so I pour a little wheat germ oil over the mix and stir in some wheat germ and garlic powder (though I have heard that powdered garlic is much less potent than fresh), and add Hemoplex (vitamins, chelated minerals, iron, Folic acid, B12 and Iodine) or Vita TEAM which has electrolytes.  Then I put some Feather Glo Avi-vite in the water.  Probably more supplements than the birds actually need.

  • CANKER
    • RONIDAZOL 10%
    • EMTRY40%
    • SPARTRIX
    • ANTI-TRICHO
    • CARNIDAZOLE
Birds should also be given canker medicine.  I give it to youngsters as soon as they hit the floor (are out of the nest).  It is a tablet called Spartrix or Carnidazole.  You give half a tablet to each bird.  I also do this once or twice a year.
  • COCCIDIOSIS
    • BAYCOX
    • APPERTEX
    • COCCI MIX
    • COCCIDIOSIS & CANKER
    • COCCI-GEEL MIX
    • TRICHO-COCCI MIX
    • COXI-THICHO MIX
 
  • RESPIRATORY
    • BAYTRIL 10%
    • SUANOVIL
    • ORNITHOSE-L
    • ORNITHOSE-S
    • DOXCIN-P
    • DOXCIN PLUS
    • ORNI-MIX-1
    • ORNI-MIX-2
    • RESPIRATORY DROPS
    • TYLAN
If you have any respiratory infections in the birds, Tylan is a good medication.  It treats Mycoplasma gallisepticum.
  • PARATYPHOID-SALMONELLOSIS
    • BAYTRIL 10%
    • PARATHYHOSE
    • PARA-KILL
Sal Bac for Paratyphoid.  Inject the same way as PMV-1.  Twice a year for all birds.
  • E-COLI
    • BAYTRIL 10%
    • COLISTINE POWDER
    • ADENO E-COLI MIX
    • PARA-KILL
    • 4/1 POWDER
 
  • PMV
    • COLOMBOVAC VACCINE
    • ADENO/PMV VACCINE
    • LASOTA
    • ADENO
    • ADENO/PMV VACCINE
    • ADENO E-COLI MIX
    • 4/1 POWDER
PMV-1 for Paramyxovirus.  Twice a year in the bird's first year (starting at no less than 2 months old); then once a year for older birds. It is administered by injection into the flesh in the back of the neck. The first time I tried this with another breeder, I was shaking so badly, he took the bird away from me.  I can do it now, with someone to hold the bird. It really takes two people.  Get someone in a club near you to show you how.
  • POX
    • OVO-PERISTERIN VACCINE
Pox Vaccine.  Pluck out feathers in the breast; be sure you get a little blood going.  Rub the vaccine on.  Apply to all birds only once in a lifetime.  You will know the vaccine 'took' if you get a little swelling in the area.   That is good.  If you don't, apply it again.   Any adult birds that have had pox and survived, will be immune already.   Keep this medicine refrigerated!!  Actually, I keep them all refrigerated.
  • WORMERS
    • ENDO&ECTO
    • WORMER MIX
    • IVOMEC DRENCH
Birds should also be wormed; I do it twice a year with the kind you mix in the water.  You can use just about any kind.  Lots of people seem to like Ivomec Drench, which is also sold by Foy's, as are all the medications discussed here.
  • PARASITE CONTROL
    • ENDO &ECTO
    • PARAKILL
    • LOFT CHALK
    • PERMECTRIN II
Use Borax laundry detergent (2 tablespoons in two gallons of water for the bird baths once a week.  It does a wonderful job on the birds and they love it.  It will kill the lice, mites, and flies and leaves the feathers soft and shiny.  The bath water will stunt or kill grass and will act as an insecticide around your loft.

Note:  I have used Permectrin II ( as suggested by J.E.D.D.'s), in the bath water and also use it quarterly as a dip to prevent and eliminate any lice, mites, and pigeon flies from my pigeons. (Paul Bayani, Jr.)

  • CONDITION POWDERS
    • CONDITION MIX
    • COMETABOL
    • OPTI-CON
    • SUPER-CON
 

Purebred Pigeon
LeachGrain.GIF
Pamona Feeds
National West of England Tumbler Club